California’s NEM 3.0 is the biggest change to residential solar economics in 20 years. If you’re getting a solar quote, reading a solar contract, or watching YouTube solar content that’s more than two years old, you need to understand what changed — and what the honest math looks like now.

The short version: solar in California still makes sense for many homeowners, but the payback periods are longer, the economics favor homes with batteries over homes without, and the rosy numbers you may have seen from 2021 or 2022 no longer apply. Here’s what you actually need to know.

What net metering is, and what it was

Net metering is the policy that makes rooftop solar economically viable. Without it, excess solar power you generate during the day — power that flows back into the grid when you’re not using it — would be worth whatever the utility chooses to pay for it, which historically has been very little.

Under the original net metering rules (NEM 1.0 and the improved NEM 2.0 that followed), California homeowners received near-retail credit for exported power: roughly 25 to 30 cents per kilowatt-hour, depending on your utility and time of day. This effectively let you use the grid as a free battery. You generated power during the day, sent the surplus to the grid, and “drew it back” at night at essentially the same rate. Over a year, many systems produced enough credits to nearly zero out the electricity bill.

This made the math attractive. A well-sized 8–10 kW system with a reasonable up-front cost, the 30% federal tax credit, and a 7–8 year payback period was a compelling investment for a homeowner planning to stay put. That was the world until April 2023.

What NEM 3.0 changed

In April 2023, California’s Public Utilities Commission implemented NEM 3.0 for all new interconnection applicants. Systems grandfathered on NEM 2.0 were not affected (more on that below), but anyone applying for a new solar interconnection after that date — which is essentially every new solar installation since then — operates under the new rules.

The core change: export credits dropped by more than 75%.

Under NEM 3.0, power you export to the grid earns roughly 5 to 8 cents per kilowatt-hour, depending on the utility (PG&E, SCE, and SDG&E all have slightly different rates) and the time of day. Compare that to import rates of 28 to 44 cents per kilowatt-hour — what you pay to buy power back from the grid — and you have a massive spread.

This is the core economic problem: you export cheap, you import expensive. Every kilowatt-hour of solar that goes to the grid and comes back later is now a bad trade. The economics only close if you either use the power when your panels are generating it (self-consumption), or store it in a battery and use it later instead of buying from the grid.

The honest math

Let’s run the numbers on an 8 kW system in California — a common size for a home with moderate energy use. This system will produce roughly 11,000 to 13,000 kilowatt-hours per year depending on location and shading. Call it 12,000 kWh.

The critical question under NEM 3.0 is: how much of that production do you actually use yourself at the moment it’s being generated?

For a typical household — two adults, daytime occupancy maybe 40% of the time, AC usage weighted toward afternoon — self-consumption without a battery runs around 40 to 50% of total production. The rest gets exported. Here’s what that produces in terms of actual bill savings:

Scenario Self-consumed Exported Effective savings/kWh Est. annual savings Payback
NEM 2.0 (old system) 45% 55% @ ~28¢ ~28¢ ~$3,360/yr 6–8 years
NEM 3.0, solar only 45% @ 32¢ 55% @ 6.5¢ ~16¢ blended ~$1,920/yr 10–14 years
NEM 3.0 + battery 80% @ 32¢ 20% @ 6.5¢ ~26¢ blended ~$3,120/yr 8–11 years

Note that these are illustrative numbers based on a 32-cent blended retail rate (PG&E/SCE midpoint) and a system cost of around $28,000 before incentives. Your actual numbers will vary by utility, location, usage pattern, and installer. The point is the shape of the change, not the exact cents.

One more thing that makes the solar-only case harder: the 30% federal Investment Tax Credit (ITC) expired December 31, 2025. For several years, the ITC meaningfully shortened payback periods. Homeowners who installed before end of 2025 could claim it; new installations in 2026 and beyond cannot unless Congress reinstates it. That alone adds 2–3 years to the payback calculation for a solar-only system.

Who NEM 3.0 hits hardest

The impact of NEM 3.0 is not uniform. It depends heavily on when you use power.

Less affected

Homeowners who happen to use significant power during peak solar hours — typically 10am to 4pm — see less pain from the new rules. This includes people who work from home and run AC during the day, homeowners who run a pool pump mid-afternoon, and anyone who can shift heavy loads like dishwashers and laundry to solar-generating hours. Their self-consumption percentage stays higher, which means more of their production avoids the bad export rate.

Most affected

Night-heavy users feel NEM 3.0 most acutely. If you’re a shift worker who sleeps during the day, a two-income household where the house is empty from 8am to 6pm, or anyone who relies on overnight EV charging, your solar system is generating power largely when nobody is home to use it. That production mostly exports at 6 cents and gets bought back at 32 cents. The economics are substantially worse than they were under NEM 2.0, and dramatically worse than the 2021-era projections that fill most YouTube solar content.

The people who were counting on the grid as a free battery — which was a reasonable assumption under NEM 2.0 — are the ones whose calculations need the most revision.

The battery question

A home battery dramatically improves NEM 3.0 economics by doing one thing: shifting production from solar hours to evening hours, when the household is actually drawing power and the alternative is buying from the grid at high rates.

A battery system capturing an additional 30 to 40% of production (above the baseline self-consumption) can push blended effective savings from around 16 cents per kilowatt-hour up to 26 cents or better. As the table above shows, that can compress a 10–14 year payback back down to 8–11 years.

Current installed costs to know:

  • Tesla Powerwall 3: approximately $15,500 installed for a 13.5 kWh system, though pricing varies by installer and region
  • Enphase IQ Battery 10C: approximately $910 per usable kilowatt-hour installed, so a 10 kWh system runs around $9,100
  • Other options (Franklin Electric, Panasonic EverVolt, SunPower SunVault) fall in similar ranges

Two additional economic factors to know:

Virtual Power Plants (VPPs). Several California utilities now run programs where they can draw power from enrolled home batteries during grid stress events. In exchange, homeowners earn payment — typically $200 to $500 per year for actively enrolled systems. PG&E, SCE, and others have active VPP programs. It doesn’t fundamentally change the payback math, but it’s real money that slightly improves the return and provides grid benefits.

The 25D battery credit also expired December 31, 2025. The residential clean energy credit that applied to home battery storage, like the ITC for solar panels, is no longer available for 2026 installations. This makes the solar-plus-battery combination meaningfully more expensive than it was a year ago.

What installers aren’t telling you

This is the section to read carefully before you sit down with a solar salesperson.

Many installers still structure their quotes around gross production: they tell you your system will produce X kilowatt-hours per year, multiply that by your average retail electricity rate, and present the result as your annual savings. Under NEM 2.0, that was a reasonable approximation. Under NEM 3.0, it systematically overstates the savings for anyone who exports a significant portion of their production.

The gap between “your system will produce 12,000 kilowatt-hours” and “your system will save you 12,000 × your rate” is enormous when 55% of that production is being exported at 6.5 cents while your rate is 32 cents. A salesperson presenting the gross production number without breaking out self-consumption vs. export isn’t lying, exactly, but they are presenting a number that will not match your actual bill savings.

Ask every installer: “Show me the self-consumption vs. export split in your proposal. What NEM 3.0 export rate are you using in the savings calculation?”

If they can’t answer that clearly, or if their proposal doesn’t distinguish gross production from net savings under NEM 3.0 export rates, that’s a red flag. Good installers have adapted their proposals to NEM 3.0 reality. The ones who haven’t adapted are either behind on the policy or counting on customers not knowing to ask.

Red flag: any proposal that doesn’t mention NEM 3.0 explicitly, or that calculates annual savings by multiplying total production by retail rate without breaking out the export portion. Ask specifically how much of your production they expect to be self-consumed vs. exported, and at what export rate.

NEM 2.0 grandfathering: what you have if you’re already on it

If your system was interconnected before April 2023, you are grandfathered on NEM 2.0 terms for 20 years from your interconnection date. This is genuinely valuable. You are operating under a policy that California has since replaced, and the economics of your system are substantially better than anything being installed today.

A few things to know about your grandfathered status: it follows the interconnection, not the property. If you sell your home, the NEM 2.0 tariff does not automatically transfer — it depends on the specific rules at the time of sale and whether the new owner files to retain it. Check with your utility before listing your home if you want to preserve this as a selling point.

Also: if you add a battery to a grandfathered NEM 2.0 system, California utilities have generally allowed this without forcing you to switch to NEM 3.0 — but policies vary and are worth confirming with your utility directly before adding storage.

What to actually do

Given all of this, here is honest guidance on when solar makes sense and when it doesn’t under current conditions.

Do efficiency upgrades first

Before sizing a solar system, reduce what you need to offset. Air sealing, attic insulation, LED lighting, and a heat pump water heater collectively can reduce a home’s electricity use by 20 to 35%. Every kilowatt-hour you don’t use is a kilowatt-hour you don’t need to generate. Efficiency reduces the system size you need, reduces the upfront cost, and improves your self-consumption percentage (smaller system, same household load, higher proportion used directly). Air sealing in particular is often the highest-return first step.

Who solar still makes sense for

If you have a high electricity bill — $300 or more per month — and plan to stay in your home for 10 or more years, solar is still likely a good investment even under NEM 3.0. The payback period is longer than it was, but at high bill levels, the absolute savings are large enough to justify it. Pair with a battery if your budget allows.

If you are electrifying — adding an EV, switching to a heat pump, installing a heat pump water heater — your electricity demand will rise substantially. In this case, solar becomes more attractive because your self-consumption percentage will likely be higher (more load to absorb the production), and the alternative is paying escalating utility rates on a larger bill.

Who should wait or look elsewhere

If you plan to move within 7 years, solar under NEM 3.0 without the federal credit is a hard sell. The payback period likely extends beyond your planned occupancy, and while solar can add resale value, it may not recoup the cost in full. Do efficiency upgrades instead.

If your electricity bill is under $150 per month, the absolute savings may not justify a $25,000–$35,000 solar-plus-battery investment. Run the actual math (or use a tool like EnergySage) rather than relying on an installer’s projection.

How to shop if you decide to go solar

Get at least three quotes. EnergySage is a useful platform for comparison shopping, but verify the NEM 3.0 assumptions yourself rather than accepting the savings numbers at face value. Ask each installer to show you the self-consumption vs. export breakdown, the specific export rate they’re using, and whether their production estimate accounts for your actual usage pattern or just gross generation.

If you decide to add storage: battery economics are genuinely better under NEM 3.0 than they were under NEM 2.0, because the gap between export value and import cost creates a larger arbitrage opportunity. Unless budget is very tight, the combination of solar plus battery is now the more sensible default for new installations in California.

The Honest Answer

Solar in California is still worth it for many homeowners, but the math has changed significantly. At $300+/month bills with a 10+ year timeline: yes, probably. With a battery: shorter payback, better economics. At $150/month bills with an uncertain timeline: do efficiency upgrades first and revisit. The “solar basically pays for itself” framing from pre-2023 content is no longer accurate for most new installations.

Watch Out

If an installer doesn’t walk you through NEM 3.0 economics explicitly in their proposal — showing you self-consumption vs. export, the actual export rate, and what that means for your payback period — that’s a red flag. Good installers understand this and will explain it clearly. The ones who don’t are either cutting corners or hoping you won’t ask.

Clear next steps
  1. Know your number before you call anyone. Pull 12 months of electricity bills and find your average monthly cost and kilowatt-hour usage. This is the baseline for every calculation that follows.
  2. Do efficiency upgrades first. A free utility energy audit will tell you where your home is losing energy. Air sealing and insulation are usually the highest-return investments and reduce the system size you need.
  3. Get three quotes and ask the right questions. Use EnergySage or direct quotes. Ask each installer: “What self-consumption percentage are you assuming, and what NEM 3.0 export rate are you using in the savings calculation?” Compare apples to apples.
  4. Model the battery scenario. Ask your installer to run the numbers with and without storage. Under NEM 3.0, the gap in effective savings between solar-only and solar-plus-battery is large enough that the battery often pencils out even at current prices.
  5. Check for remaining incentives. The 30% federal credit and battery 25D credit have expired, but California’s SGIP (Self-Generation Incentive Program) still offers battery storage incentives for qualifying households. Low-income homeowners may also qualify for TECH Clean California programs. Your installer should know these; if they don’t, find one who does.

Use our solar ROI calculator to model your specific situation, including NEM 3.0 export rates and the battery scenario side by side.