Find the Right Heat Pump for Your Home

How it works

• Uses your existing ductwork — no major re-plumbing or new distribution system required
• Moves heat rather than burning fuel: COP 2.5–4 means 2.5–4 units of heat per unit of electricity consumed
• Handles heating and cooling in one unit — replaces your AC at the same time
• Modern units operate effectively at California temperatures with ease; many rated to 0°F or below

Top models to ask about

How it works

• A compact outdoor unit connects to one or more indoor wall units via small refrigerant lines — no ductwork needed
• Eliminating ducts removes 25–30% of energy that typical ducted systems lose through leaks and heat transfer
• Each zone is independently controlled — only condition the rooms you're actually using
• Hyper-heat models work effectively to −13°F; California's mild winters are no challenge at all
• Ideal for whole-home without ducts, room additions, garages, and accessory dwelling units

Top models to ask about

How to check if you have ducts

• Look for rectangular metal vents in your floors, ceilings, or walls — those are supply registers, you have ducts
• Baseboard heaters or wall heaters are a clear sign there are no ducts — mini-split territory
• Check your utility closet, attic, or garage for a furnace or air handler with metal ductwork attached
• Any HVAC contractor can confirm in minutes during a free estimate visit

General decision rule

• Gas furnace + have ducts → Central Ducted Heat Pump (replaces furnace and AC together)
• No ducts, any heating source → Mini-Split System (highest efficiency, no ductwork required)
• Electric resistance with or without ducts → Mini-Split for the biggest possible savings
• Either way, a Heat Pump Water Heater below is often the best first step